Weihrauch HW77 .22

What can you say about a 77, this is just a classic quality springer, built to last more than a lifetime and to perform always at the very top of spring technology.

This particular rifle belonged to my father in law and dates around 1988. It had been stored and forgotten in an attic and had gone all rusty and tatty. It’s been a long term project to restore it and bring it back to its former glory.

This is the state in which I found the gun.

Gone a bit rusty there I’m afraid..

.. and there

I completely stripped it to bare metal, all rust removed and the steel polished and cold reblued. The internals were all polished and relubed and a V-Mach kit was installed. The stock was stripped with NitroMoors, stained and oiled. The result is what you can see here.

I have taken this gun many times with me in the field and it’s a deadly weapon. It has minimal recoil, consistency and match accuracy. It’s certainly not the lightest tool to take around with you but a sling goes a long way. To me, the 77 has the charm of times gone by and if this is the gun you’re after, I cannot recommend it more.

17 Responses to Weihrauch HW77 .22

  1. Dave says:

    Great job! I have a 77 in similiar condition, and have been wanting to do this, but the thought of a refurb is a daunting task. Did you polish inside the barrel?

  2. Fran says:

    Thanks Dave.
    No, I didn’t touch the inside of the barrel. When I finished this job, this gun turned out to be spot on so no need to tamper there. It’s a job that on a 77 can be done at any time anyway with just a few pull-throughs of autosol, so give it a go without polishing first.
    Cheers

  3. Dave says:

    Were you happy with the results of the cold Bluing process? It looks good from the photo’s, but many people seem to prefer hot bluing, done professionally.

  4. Fran says:

    You’re right.. hot bluing is the real thing.
    Although I was well happy with the result at the time, cold bluing doesn’t stand the test of time. Some areas have gone slightly brownish and I had to reblue the cocking lever because of the wear. Also there’s no real rust protection on cold blued steel.
    But At the time I was on a budget and could not justify 100-150 quid spent on bluing some steel, so that birchwood casey paste did the job.

  5. Wow! Thank you! I constantly needed to write on my blog something like that. Can I include a portion of your post to my blog?

  6. Fenton says:

    Lovely refurb. top marks ! Im a proud owner of a “77” since 1989 & it’s obviously seen better days (it’s very much a working gun) , but it still comes up with the goods each time – a true design classic.

  7. Fran says:

    Many thanks sir :-)

  8. Daryl from BC says:

    Excellent writeup Fran. Excellent job on the refurbish, too. Bravo!

  9. Fran says:

    Thank you very much Daryl

  10. Peter says:

    Great Blog Fran! I love to read it!

    I also have a HW77 in .177.
    But i don’t like the varnish of the stock. Out of the box it looks cheaper than it is, i think you know what i mean…a typical Weihrauch problem.
    I really love the look of your stock. Can you tell me what kind of oil you’ve used? And how many times did you oil the stock? how long were the dry periods between the oilings? did you polish it with steel wool or anything else at the end?

    many, many questions, but i want to learn from the best ;))

    Thanks a lot for answering, many greetings from Germany!

    Peter

    • Fran says:

      Hi Peter,
      Many thanks for your kind words.

      Here are the answers :)

      1) I used a Birchwood Casey kit (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Birchwood-Casey-Tru-Oil-Stock-Finish/dp/B0014VROMQ). I prefer this one over the Danish oil as I think it makes a harder finish.
      However, you will need to stain the stock before starting with the oil. That kit includes a walnut stain (which I used).
      Apply the first coats of oil by hand until a glossy finish starts to appear. Then take a cheap, soft, unused sponge (one for the washing up for instance). Cut some strips about the size of a matchbox and use a fresh one for every coat. The reason is that as the oil crystallise on the sponge, you will end up with little bits of hard stuff glued all over the stock. The keep clean, also pour some oil into a little container (the lid of a pellets tin) and clean it well afterwards.
      Now it’s when you need to start polishing between coats (see point 4 below).

      2) I think I did it about 15 times. It took over a month.

      3) Between 24 and 48 hours, depending on how thin the coat was and how good the drying conditions (temperature, humidity), but never sooner than 24 hours.

      4) Yes, that’s a tedious but essential part. You will need the finest steel-wool you can get.
      You want to be very very gentle here because the finish gets scratched easily. However, the idea is to create a base for the next coat to stick well to. For the last coat just use a rag, like an old t-shirt so that the finish doesn’t go dull.

      Dust and finger prints are worst enemies. Ideally you want a room dedicated to doing this job. You can hang the stock to dry using a pencil stuck across the screw holes and a hook or something. I used a bungee lead.

      Good luck with your project.

      ATB
      Fran

  11. robbie126 says:

    Hi, that is a stunning piece of restoration work! I would imagine that a good few hours went into the stripping back to basics. Congratulations on a job well done.

  12. Anonymous says:

    That is a mightily impressive stock finish there, very good indeed!

  13. when you stripped the gun for bluing did you remove the barrel catch or work with it on ?

    i am about to do the sam to my 77

  14. Anonymous says:

    Lovely job you’ve done there. I like the rifle rest, did you make it yourself?

  15. laurie says:

    What a beautiful finish to the stock…..why can’t manufacturers do that to begin with?

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